transbaikal patagonia 2020
From June 27 to July 20, 2020 i took part in an expedition to the South-Muisky ridge (Republic of Buryatia, Far East of Russia). This event was organized by the Irkutsk club "Mountains of Baikal" under the leadership of Evgeny Glazunov. A year earlier, he, together with Pavel Tkachenko and Nadezhda Oleneva, carried out exploration and prepared the ground for this expedition. You can read about it here.
The main goal of our raid was the development of a new area: as a team we made 16 climbing routes (from 1B to 6A russian categories of difficulty) and made 10 first ascents to the peaks of Modelistov peak (2590m), Altair, Tatyana (2446m), Krasavitsa (2549m) and Chudovische (2577m ), Medikov (2548m), Max Fry (2600m), Aleksey Bolotov (2420m), Stega (2452m), Bushuev (2627m).
In this difficult adventure I played the role of not only a climber, but also a photographer-chronicler of the expedition. This is a short report from these hidden from the casual viewer and God-forgotten places of events.
27 June 2020. Day 0
Chita — Bagdarin — Baunt (440 km)
In the first photo, our entire team of 12 people at the point of departure - the capital of the Trans-Baikal Territory - Chita, from the top row from left to right: Anastasia Ramazanova (St. Petersburg), Daria Sycheva (St. Petersburg), Dmitry Panov (St. Petersburg), Andrey Panov (St. Petersburg), Anatoly Syshikov (Yekaterinburg), Polina Penkina (Yekaterinburg), Alena Panova (Irkutsk), Evgeny Glazunov (Irkutsk), Alexey Boyko (Irkutsk), Pavel Tkachenko (Chita), Grigory Abramov (Irkutsk), Evgenia Leontyev (Komsomolsk-on-Amur).
On the way, we made a big stop in the village of Bagdarin, having visited the chief geologist-speleologist of the area and just a wonderful person - Oleg Nikolaevich Morozov.
The most unpredictable moment in our plan for this day was a ford across the Taloy River, because we could not know for sure the water level in advance. Lucky: the locals came to the rescue, and the group safely without long delays with all the belongings and transport was on the other side.
"To Berlin!" - the commander gave the go-ahead and it starts.
28 June 2020. Day 1
Baunt — Base 0 (55°18'27.54"N 112°47'34.05"E)
Transfer on an all-terrain vehicle and a boat, setting up tents, parsing provisions, preparing for the exit (hanging barrels with food and things).
29 June 2020. Day 2
Base 0 (55°18'27.54"N 112°47'34.05"E)
It started raining in the morning, so we decided to stay here for the day. The Panov brothers went to meet the bear, while the rest of the team got to know each other over the fire.
30 June 2020. Day 3
Base 0 (55°18'27.54"N 112°47'34.05"E) — Base 1 (55°23′00.17″N 112°39′02.27″E)
At 8 am we set out from the base camp, at about 13:00 we were at the top of the pass, at 18:30 we went to the place of the next camp Base 1 on the Inamakit river (altitude 1356 m above sea level). We covered 17 km during the day.
1 Jule 2020. Day 4
Base 1 (55°23′00.17″N 112°39′02.27″E) — Base 2 (55°25′44.49″N 112°37′25.98″E)
At 8:00 we started from Base 1, at about 14:00 we went to the Base 2 parking place - the base camp under Kart. On the way, we came across picturesque ice, along which it was very pleasant and convenient to walk, although the mix of rubber boots, ice and mosquitoes flickering before our eyes blew up the brain in a very high quality. We covered 8.43 km. The height of the Base 2 camp is 1616 m above sea level.
2 Jule 2020. Day 5
E. Glazunov, D. Sycheva and G. Abramov leave for exploration and make the first ascent to Modelistov peak. The Panov brothers climb the line along the left side of the Western Wall of the Southern Bastion to the Kart Peak (later they will call it "Sounds of Youth", Ru 5A). The rest part, including myself, are throwing equipment under the Kart wall and looking at future routes. Hearing that gastronomic inquisitive animals live here, we diligently hang all the textiles.
3 Jule 2020. Day 6
G. Abramov, D. Sycheva and A. Ramazanova leave for the route along the north-western ridge to Makarov peak. Alena Panova and Polina Penkina and I climb along the central Western bastion of the Northern Ridge to Kart (the route will be called "Your choice", Ru 5B). A. Boyko and P. Tkachenko begin their journey to the same peak, but along the center of the western wall at the same time as us (the line will be called "Cascade", Ru 5B).
After lunch, Bear visits the camp to find out how the ascents are going. Hearing that the girls are only in the middle of the wall, he anxiously and quickly disappears from sight. His concern turns out to be not in vain: we successfully catch the cold overnight, which disrupts the guys' plans for tomorrow's ascent. That night I hugged a girl so tightly for the first time in my life, but we will omit the details, because, as they say, everything that was on the mountain will remain on the mountain!
4 Jule 2020. Day 7
A cozy shelf on which we spent the night on a bedding made of ropes (that is, 4 hours). Well, just imagine, mosquitoes found us here
We meet the dawn on the Kart ridge. At the top I make a 360 panorama. At 10:30 we return from the mountain, and in the camp we are greeted with delicious borscht and tea. The Panov brothers go to the feedlot for the next delivery of food.
5 June 2020. Day 8
A. Syshchikov and E. Glazunov lay a new line along the Great Fireplace of the Left Bastion of the Western Wall of the Kart (future ru 5A). P. Penkina, A. Ramazanova and D. Sycheva go to the ridge 2A on Kart. A part of the group makes a transfer of equipment to the Razvedchikov pass. At about 6 pm, the Panov brothers return with a load from the main base camp.
6-8 Jule 2020. Day 9-11
The main part of the group is leaving for the transfer to the feedlot. The total distance between the two camps is about 22 km with much less heavy backpacks we overcome without additional overnight stays. At the base on the day of rest we put our clothes and ourselves in order, fish, cook compote and enjoy the taiga. In the camp near Kart remain: the Panov brothers, A. Ramazanova and P. Penkina. During our absence, the girls visit the peak of Polyarniki along the route 1B grade. On the day of our return to Base 2, the Panov brothers pass another new line on Kart along the right side of the wall of the main bastion ("Kuhelklopf", ru 5A) - it starts a little to the right of the route of E. Glazunov in 2019 and converges with it in the last three sections.
The impudent South-Mui marmot, with its flagrant actions towards the participant's climbing helmet (the result can be seen in the photo), gently hints that the group has sat too long and it would be time to go to another gorge. “We can't joke with a marmot!” -, We agree, and the next morning we leave the habitable meado.
9 Jule 2020. Day 12
Base 2 (55°25′44.49″N 112°37′25.98″E) — Base 3 (55°28′15.28″N 112°40′14.61″E)
In the morning it was drizzling, so we left at about 12:00 in the direction of the Razvedchikov pass. The descent took a long time: the pass is high and steep, and the most unpleasant part of it are slabs like ram's foreheads, sometimes covered with slippery grass. With some shudder, I imagined the return ascent with a heavy backpack to this long takeoff. It's good that this did not happen.
Another pass awaited us ahead of us, we didn’t have time to reach the Dream Peak before dark (and the forecast for tomorrow did not bode well - there was nowhere to rush), so we camped near the lake in a picturesque place, which last year, at the suggestion of Pasha, began called the Akulya Mast gorge. And this is that rare case when the verbal definition so aptly reflected reality that it seemed that literally it always was. Above the frozen glimmering mirror the smooth surface of the water in the rays of the setting sun in the evening, the ashen monolithic walls of the peaks of Valery Popov and Sergei Glazunov cut into the sky with their sharp edges like knives.
10 Jule 2020. Day 13
Just in case, in the evening we planned routes from the gorge, but in the morning no one came out on them, because it was raining almost all day, the peaks were covered with clouds
11 Jule 2020. Day 14
Base 3 (55°28′15.28″N 112°40′14.61″E) – Base 4 (55°29′49.632″N 112°38′31.266″E)
It rained at night, in the morning every now and then the tent was shaken by gusts of wind, which, with its proprietly rigid hand, again cleared the surrounding space from the gray and dull spots that had covered it. The group was scheduled to leave at 12:30. 2 hours before its offensive, I decided to climb higher along the slope closest to the camp to take some pictures. But as it sometimes happens, I did not manage to stop in time and ended up on the top, from which an amazingly photogenic ridge went to the Kart (I made the tour and christened the mountain Altair). From this position, both of our passes were also fully visible and the entire gorge opened up in full view. I did not miss the opportunity to make a 360 panorama.
As a result, I was 20 minutes late to camp and received a scolding for forgetting the radio. Quickly completing my backpack, drinking soup from a mug on the go, she joined the line ascending to the Alenka pass. On the other side, in a beautiful river valley dotted with rheum, we set up camp Base 4 under the western side of Dream Peak.
On the storming of Dreams mountain, according to the plan, two groups went out tomorrow.
In the evening of the same day, I climbed the hill closest to the camp to capture the sunset. This time I didn't forget the radio, because I forgot the flashlight. Descending by simple climbing in the rapidly coming twilight I felt incredibly happiness.
12 Jule 2020. Day 15
While E. Glazunov, A. Syshikov and A. Panova climbed the Dream along the center of the bastion of the southwestern wall (“Der fliegende hollander”, 6A), A. Boyko and P. Tkachenko stormed the same peak along the southern ridge. The Panov brothers stayed at the base to conduct radio communications, the rest of the group, under my strict guidance, went to the traverse of the nearest peaks. So, Chudovische (2577m, 55 ° 29'51.546 "N, 112 ° 40'10.83" E), Tatyana (2446m, 55 ° 29'23.934 "N, 112 ° 39'48.546" E), Medikov (2548m, 55 ° 29'7.488 "N, 112 ° 40'17.916" E) and Krasavitsa (2549m, 55 ° 29'3.492 "N, 112 ° 40'19.356" E) appeared on the schematic map.
13 Jule 2020. Day 16
The Panov brothers climbed their line to Dream (they will call "Dragon", 4B), the remaining part of group are resting in the camp. The weather turns bad in the afternoon.
14 Jule 2020. Day 17
A. Syshchikov and E. Glazunov make the first ascent to the top of 2420m opposite the camp along the route 2B grade, the mountain is named after the Yekaterinburg climber Alexei Bolotov.
P. Penkina, A. Ramazanova and D. Sycheva pass route 1B to Tatyana.
15 Jule 2020. Day 18
P. Penkina, A. Panova, the Panov brothers go to the traverse, which they plan to start from the Chudovische in the opposite direction. By the end of the day, the peaks of Max Fry (2600m, 55 ° 29'56.98 "N 112 ° 40'51.79" E) and Bushuev (2627m, 55 ° 29'47.73 "N 112 ° 41'16.63" E) will appear on the map. A. Ramazanova and D. Sycheva make a walk slightly above the Alenka pass in the direction of the top of Mount Olga (named a year earlier during the exploration of the area).
The vanguard of the fighters E. Glazunov, A. Syshchikov, A. Boyko and P. Tkachenko is sent to a meeting with the eastern wall of Dreams, where he plans to lay a line. As they approach the beginning of the route, the name "Most Molodets" gets an unnamed pass. Secretly from everyone, G. Abramov makes a solo ascent to the neighboring peak of Alexei Bolotov, a pointed peak of 2452 meters in height along the route 3A kt and calls it Stega - in honor of his deceased friend
Secretly from everyone, G. Abramov makes a solo ascent to the neighboring peak of Alexei Bolotov, a pointed peak of 2452 meters in height along the route 3A kt and calls it Stega - in honor of his deceased friend.
It's my turn to communicate. In the evening, a strong thunderstorm comes - the group on Dream is literally washed away from the wall, which, unlike the western one, turns out to be extremely poor in relief, which draws the guys into a real bolt battle. The broken punch and the running out of stocks of anchors against the backdrop of an unfavorable forecast make them decide to prudently end this war with retreat.
16 Jule 2020. Day 19
The group from the east wall removes the ropes and returns to Base 4. The weather doesn't spoil again.
17 Jule 2020. Day 20
Base 4 (55°29′49.632″N 112°38′31.266″E) — Base 1 (55°23′00.17″N 112°39′02.27″E)
To avoid having to overcome the high and unpleasant Razvedchikov Pass on the way back, we decide to try a new route variant - the guys spied on it from the top of Alexei Bolotov. We had to leave through the Parabola pass (55 ° 29′21.08 ″ N 112 ° 37′50.91 ″ E), and then take off to the Papanin pass. One problem: because of the bad weather, everything around was immersed in milk. We walked through completely unfamiliar places almost blindly, we also blindly climbed the steep slopes, because in the upper part of the Papanin pass was a little non-pedestrian. The experience turned out to be interesting: the application on the smartphone helped a lot, which roughly showed the location of the group on schematic map, and also checked with the altimeter of the wristwatch. Climbing with heavy backpacks in rubber boots on the wall, drowned in obscurity and fog, according to a statistical survey of participants, became one of the most memorable moments of the expedition.
In Base 2 under Kart a late lunch was prepared and by sunset we were already in Base 1. We have covered 23.7 km in this day with two passes.
18 Jule 2020. Day 21
Base 1 (55°23′00.17″N 112°39′02.27″E) — Baunt
The night was surprisingly cold: the sutras found ice, frost and frozen socks. Traveled 35.6 km in a day with one pass and endless swamps. A generator and plastic barrels for storing food and equipment were taken out from the main parking lot on indefatigable backs. We left nothing behind. We even transported to Chita the "Lord of the Rings" that had wintered on the ridge. Boatmen were waiting for us near the lake at sunset.
In the photo from the finish of the expedition in the resort village of Bount, the central object in the frame is not a whole and unharmed group that unfurled their banners - this is a bath that everyone loves, connected to local hydrogen sulfide sources.
At the end of the story, a short video about expeditions to the South-Muisky ridge, for which materials were used, filmed by Evgeny Glazunov (his voiceover) during these 2 years from a quadrocopter, there are also footage from Alexei Boyko and the Panov brothers. Editing: Evgeny Pogrebnyak. Many thanks to all of them!
The final list of routes passed during the expedition:
1. Peak Modelistov 2590m (1B, first ascent) E. Glazunov, D. Sycheva and G. Abramov - 02.07.2020
2. Peak Kart 2661m (5A, "Sounds of Youth", on the left side of the Western wall of the South Bastion, first ascent) D. Panov, A. Panov - 02.07.2020
3. Peak Makarov 2544m (3A, along the north-western ridge, first ascent) G. Abramov, A. Ramazanova, D. Sycheva - 03.07.2020 4. Peak Kart 2661m (5B, "Cascade", in the center of the western wall, first ascent) A. Boyko, P. Tkachenko - 03.07.2020
5. Peak Kart 2661m (5B, "The choice is yours", along the central Western bastion of the Northern Ridge, first ascent) A. Panova, E. Leontyeva, P. Penkin - 03.07.2020
6. Peak Kart 2661m (5A, along the Great Fireplace of the Left Bastion of the Western Wall, first ascent) A.Syshchikov, E.Glazunov - 05.07.2020
7. Peak Kart 2661m (2A, along the western ridge) P. Penkin, A. Ramazanov, D. Sycheva –05.07.2020
8. Peak Polyarnikov 2466m (1B) P. Penkin, A. Ramazanov - 07.07.2020
9. Peak Kart 2661m (5A, "Kuhelklopf", on the right side of the wall of the main bastion, first ascent) D. Panov, A. Panov - 08.07.2020
10. Peak Altair (1B, on the northern slope, first ascent), E. Leontieva - 11.07.2020
11. Peak Mechta 2590m (6A, “Der fliegende hollander”, in the center of the southwestern wall bastion, first ascent) E. Glazunov, A. Syshikov, A. Panova - 12.07.2020
12. Peak Mechta 2590m (4B, southern ridge, first ascent) P. Tkachenko, A. Boyko - 12.07.2020
13. Chudovische 2577m - Tatiana 2446m - Medikov 2548m - Krasatsca 2549m (3B, traverse, first ascent) E. Leontieva, G. Abramov, P. Penkina, A. Ramazanova, D. Sycheva - 12.07.2020
14. Peak Dream 2590m ("Dragon", 4B, first ascent) D. Panov, A. Panov - 13.07.2020
15. Alexey Bolotov peak 2420m (2B, first ascent) A.Syshchikov, E.Glazunov - 14.07.2020
16. Tatiana 2446m (1B, along the northern ridge) A. Ramazanova, P. Penkina, D. Sycheva - 14.07.2020
17. Chudovische 2577m - Max Fry 2600m - Bushueva 2627m (4A, traverse, first ascent) D.Panov, A.Panov, A.Panova, P.Penkina - 15.07.2020
18. Stega 2452m (3A, first ascent) G. Abramov - 15.07.2020
By complexity in russian category: 1Б – 4, 2А – 1, 2Б – 1, 3А – 2, 3Б – 1, 4А – 1, 4Б – 2, 5А – 3, 5Б – 2, 6А – 1
And also all the peaks we climbed:
The report is duplicated on Risk.ru