transbaikal patagonia 2020

From June 27 to July 20, 2020 i took part in an expedition to the South-Muisky ridge (Republic of Buryatia, Far East of Russia). This event was organized by the Irkutsk club "Mountains of Baikal" under the leadership of Evgeny Glazunov. A year earlier, he, together with Pavel Tkachenko and Nadezhda Oleneva, carried out exploration and prepared the ground for this expedition. You can read about it here.


The main goal of our raid was the development of a new area: as a team we made 16 climbing routes (from 1B to 6A russian categories of difficulty) and made 10 first ascents to the peaks of Modelistov peak (2590m), Altair, Tatyana (2446m), Krasavitsa (2549m) and Chudovische (2577m ), Medikov (2548m), Max Fry (2600m), Aleksey Bolotov (2420m), Stega (2452m), Bushuev (2627m).


In this difficult adventure I played the role of not only a climber, but also a photographer-chronicler of the expedition. This is a short report from these hidden from the casual viewer and God-forgotten places of events.

The final list of routes passed during the expedition:

1. Peak Modelistov 2590m (1B, first ascent) E. Glazunov, D. Sycheva and G. Abramov - 02.07.2020

2. Peak Kart 2661m (5A, "Sounds of Youth", on the left side of the Western wall of the South Bastion, first ascent) D. Panov, A. Panov - 02.07.2020

3. Peak Makarov 2544m (3A, along the north-western ridge, first ascent) G. Abramov, A. Ramazanova, D. Sycheva - 03.07.2020 4. Peak Kart 2661m (5B, "Cascade", in the center of the western wall, first ascent) A. Boyko, P. Tkachenko - 03.07.2020

5. Peak Kart 2661m (5B, "The choice is yours", along the central Western bastion of the Northern Ridge, first ascent) A. Panova, E. Leontyeva, P. Penkin - 03.07.2020

6. Peak Kart 2661m (5A, along the Great Fireplace of the Left Bastion of the Western Wall, first ascent) A.Syshchikov, E.Glazunov - 05.07.2020

7. Peak Kart 2661m (2A, along the western ridge) P. Penkin, A. Ramazanov, D. Sycheva –05.07.2020

8. Peak Polyarnikov 2466m (1B) P. Penkin, A. Ramazanov - 07.07.2020

9. Peak Kart 2661m (5A, "Kuhelklopf", on the right side of the wall of the main bastion, first ascent) D. Panov, A. Panov - 08.07.2020

10. Peak Altair (1B, on the northern slope, first ascent), E. Leontieva - 11.07.2020

11. Peak Mechta 2590m (6A, “Der fliegende hollander”, in the center of the southwestern wall bastion, first ascent) E. Glazunov, A. Syshikov, A. Panova - 12.07.2020

12. Peak Mechta 2590m (4B, southern ridge, first ascent) P. Tkachenko, A. Boyko - 12.07.2020

13. Chudovische 2577m - Tatiana 2446m - Medikov 2548m - Krasatsca 2549m (3B, traverse, first ascent) E. Leontieva, G. Abramov, P. Penkina, A. Ramazanova, D. Sycheva - 12.07.2020

14. Peak Dream 2590m ("Dragon", 4B, first ascent) D. Panov, A. Panov - 13.07.2020

15. Alexey Bolotov peak 2420m (2B, first ascent) A.Syshchikov, E.Glazunov - 14.07.2020

16. Tatiana 2446m (1B, along the northern ridge) A. Ramazanova, P. Penkina, D. Sycheva - 14.07.2020

17. Chudovische 2577m - Max Fry 2600m - Bushueva 2627m (4A, traverse, first ascent) D.Panov, A.Panov, A.Panova, P.Penkina - 15.07.2020

18. Stega 2452m (3A, first ascent) G. Abramov - 15.07.2020


By complexity in russian category:  – 4, – 1, – 1, – 2, – 1,  – 1, – 2, – 3, – 2, – 1

And also all the peaks we climbed:

The report is duplicated on